After marching for awhile more, we bused out of Bay St. Louis, Pass Christian and Waveland, MS, some of the most devastated areas of the Gulf Coast, into Slidell, Louisianna, on Friday afternoon. Here are Iraq Vets, Garret and Abbey, taking a rest before we boarded the buses and vehichles for a 50-vehicle convoy, hazard lights flashing, led by the two buses, through the back bayous of St. Bernards Parish, Louisianna.
Earlier at another rest stop, the guys broke out the ever-present drums and soothed us with rhythm.
That night we camped at Bayou Liberty which is the home of a volunteer group of folks from around the country, helping in the reconstruction of Slidell. It has been organized by a woman from Oklahoma who came down to the coast to do volunteer work. Time and time again we experienced that people, self-organizing themselves and using their own resources and ingenuity do more, more effectively, more humanely, more expeditiously than the pencil pushers and red-tape creators of either government agencies or the traditional volunteer organizations such as the Red Cross.
Here is the pristine view of the our campgrounds by a lovely bayou, although it was said to be inhabited by both alligators and water moccasins.
This is what I saw from the front of my tent. Most cool, and especially delicious when an almost full moon rose over the horizen of swamp trees in the distance.
One of the cajun cooks, the rotund, greyhaired gentleman in the blue shirt, cooked a wonderful alligator gumbo. It was the first time I had alligator, and reluctantly I had some, overcoming the same pact I have with alligators that I have with sharks -- I won't eat you, if you don't eat me. It was quite tasty, something like chicken, but a different texture, more crumbly, not tough, just very different.
He told us his story of survival -- He lost everything he had acquired over a full lifetime of working as an engineer, house, boat, a truck, several cars, but the most devastating thing for him was when he was working for Homeland Security in the harrowing days after the Hurricane hit and came across a building, once a nursing home, within which were 34 dead, drowned residents. He broke down crying as he related the waste of this traumatic discovery.
When we marched through Slidell, we were accompanied by a rousing Mardi Gras Band, which created the festive and celebratory atmosphere that so much of the Cajun New Orleans experience embues.
Before we marched through Slidell, we marched along one of the most toxic wastedumps anywhere in the world, filled with debris and garbage that have been hauled out of New Orleans, full of black mold, toxic chemicals from the petroleum plants ringing New Orleans, and other noxious and contaminated materials resulting from the devastation of Hurricane Katrina. Cindy gave a news conference at the staging area before we marched through the wastedump.
Scores of huge dump trucks passed us on their way to dump the hazardous cargo as we marched, many blasting their airhorns and giving us peace and victory signs.
Late in the afternoon we moved in our convoy to St. Mary's of Vietnam Catholic Church in a middle-class Vietnamese refugee neighborhood in East New Orleans.
It was very strange for me to see a group of Vietnamese youth, dressed like any American teenagers, playing a torrid pick-up game of basketball, full of shouts and epithets to each other in deep southern accents.
Our final night was spent sharing poetry and music and dancing around a rousing campfire until the wee hours of the morning. Earlier in the afternoon, one of the local residents, a Vietnamese gentleman, who had had a very prosperous seafood restaurant before it was destroyed by the Hurricane, related to us that this was the third time he was a refugee: the first time in 1954 when his Catholic family fled south from Hanoi, second when his family left Saigon in 1975 for America and now after Hurricane Katrina.
The next morning, Sunday, our last we packed up for the last time and bused to the nearby Chalmette Cemetary, adjacent to the site of the Battle of New Orleans that occurred after the truce had been signed in Washington, D.C.
Here are buried soldiers of every war from the American Revolution through my war in Vietnam.
The ultimate human cost of war.
Here we are addressed by the oldest Vet, Gene Glazer, WW II Vet and a member of the New Jersey Chapter of VFP. He eloquently reminded us of the brutal and useless cost of war that detracts from the necessary support of social and civil needs of our communities.
Our youngest vets demonstrate that as a nation, a society, a community, we still have much maturing to do.
Two of the Iraq Vet friends I made during this incredible week, Al and Eric, chill out as we prepare for the final march into New Orleans.
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